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| This is a good two finger slot with the feel of a hueco. The surprising part is finding out the inside is somewhat slick. By taking away the grip on the inside, it forces the feet to control the body weight more and prevents the obvious pinch grab. It can be brutal on an overhang as an undercling, or an easy two finger bucket. Using clay, flatten out a piece like a pancake, then curve it and wrap one end around a bit of clay used for the bolt area. Make sure it is flat and you're done. Make sure the closed end is slanted or you will have trouble sliding the hold out of the mold. | |